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Ibutton free download. UniCenta POS Keep up-to-date. Commercial-grade POS (Point-Of-Sale) software. Everything from a web browser, to read.
IButton Reader The TempTec-R Reader is a hand held data gatherer that can download files from the iButton data loggers just by touching them. The TempTec Reader can hold files from a large number of iButton data loggers before off-loading the files to the PC. The TempTec-R shows immediately if any temperature problem has occurred without having to download the file to a computer. Temperature monitoring system for transport and storage of perishable goods Features The system uses the small iButton data loggers. The iButtons are started by the PC, if desired with alarm limits using the communications program in the software and USB interface to the computer.
The iButtons are then positioned in the storage area in wall mounted fobs or mounted in coloured keytag fobs packed with goods. When the files are wanted, the user can walk up to the iButtons and gather their files by touching them with the TempTec-R reader.
I've made an iButton garagedoor opener and logger. On a Dutch (kind of) eBay I found some iButtons and readers very cheap. I had no idea what to do with them, but I bought them anyway.
My garage opens with a push on a button, so it must be possible to get that working with the iButton. I also found some really cheap (0,50 euro) displays, so it would be nice if I also can make a screen to show me who entered when. The project is now existing in three parts:. The iButton opening the door. A clock keeping track of times and dates. A screen showing the information So to keep things understandable I try first to figure out the three parts separately. Start playing with it So I bought the parts. Now I had to find out how the things work.
Trough the Arduino-site (www.arduino.cc) I found the 'Fridzing' drawing on I also found the 1-Wire library there. 1-Wire is the name of the communication method used by the iButtons. With this drawing and the library it was easy to wire everything and get it running.
How to wire up According to the schematics, I took my Arduino, a breadboard, the iButton reader, a 2,2 kOhms resistor, three wires and a LED. I wired it a little bit different than the drawing. My iButton reader had only two wires.
Before I went any further I first wanted to check wether the button opening my garage really worked by just connecting two wires. To be sure that I didn't kill myself, I first measured how much volts are going trough the button. I simply removed the button from the wall and put my multimeter on the two screws on the back. I had a reading of 21 V DC, so that might bite, but probably won't kill me if I accidentally touch it. Now I simply connected the two screws with a piece of wire and the door opened.
Adding the relay My theory worked so now it was time to add the relay to my design. On the 'Fritzing' drawing you can see how I did that. I moved the iButton to port 12 to make more room on the Arduino to ad the clock and the LCD later on.
The Arduino will switch the transistor (I used a BC338 that I had laying around, but any 5V NPN general purpose will probably do) and the transistor will switch the relay. The green wires going from the relay will be connected to the screws on the back of the button that opens the garage. The diode should be there to help the relay. (I'm not sure why anymore, but just put it there, the relay will live longer).
Finally the LCD arrived. Now I need to figure out how the thing works, so again, www.arduino.cc is my friend. I found the LCD-library and sketches. The next step is connecting the LCD to the Arduino according to the drawing on the Arduino-site. I had some old flat cable laying around that I used to connect the LCD. I don't have the right connectors, so I used some other connectors that I did have. Shielding them with 'shrinktubes?'
Makes them very usable. Two pins on the LCD should be connected to the GND so I make a little wire bridge.
The pin-setting on my LCD is not in one row but like this: 15 - 16 13 - 14 11 - 12 9 - 10 7 - 8 5 - 6 3 - 4 1 - 2 Only pin 1 and pin 15 are marked. One wire should go through a 10 kOhm potmeter. This was a problem when I wired everything up.
Ibutton Viewer
I wired everything exactly like on the Arduino site and ran the sketch that comes with the Arduino software, but it seemed like the LCD was not working. After trying everything and checking all wires ten times, I turned the potentiometer all the way down and it worked!
Al the parts work separately on the breadboard. Now it is time to put them al together on a PCB. The PCB I'm not into etching and making your own PCBs, so I will put everything on a 'hole-board'. First put in all your components and then start wiring and soldering. I colored the +5V on the back of my PCB red and the GND black. I added some header-pins so I can pin my PCB on top of the Arduino.
The corner of the PCB above pin 12 of the Arduino had to come off because it was not in line with the holes in my board. The wire going to pin 13 on the drawing is moved to pin 7. Pin 13 will blink when the Arduino starts up, so that means that the garage door would open and close and open and close every time the Arduino starts up. In the separate sketches I made (and copied from others), I changed the pin numbers to the pins that are used now and I ran all three sketches. Everything is working! To fit everything, I'm going to make an aluminum housing.
It will be 13 cm x 8 cm x 6 cm. First make a drawing. (this is a good moment to find flaws in your design). Get a piece of aluminum.
Cut out the pieces (or saw if you don't have have a cutter). Next you bend it in the right shape. (if you don't have a bender, you can do it on the edge of a table, using a steel profile and wood clamps).
To hold the Arduino and PCB, you need to drill holes in the bottom. You can mark these through the holes in the Arduino-board. With some bolts (M3 = 3mm), you can montage the Arduino. One bolt should go through the PCB. You will need this later to fine-tune the buttons on the PCB. Drill the holes in the top plate.
The top plate should support the LCD and the rods going to the buttons. Drill the holes on the places where the holes in the LCD are and right above the buttons on the PCB. You also need holes at the four corners of the front plate. With a Dremel (or wannabe Dremel) you cut out the hole for the LCD. You need to cut it a little bit to small. With a file in a vise you make the hole the right size. If you want, you can spray paint the case.
(I just painted the front black). For the buttons I used slot bolts, but they are just to close to each other so I have to make them a little bit smaller on one side. Make the holes above the buttons square if you want to use slot bolts as buttons. Cut two bushes so they are just long enough that it fits between the top plate and the buttons on the PCB. There must be enough space in-between to fit a nut (I used a nylock nut). Next you need to glue the bushes in place.
(I use hot glue because I like hot glue). Cut the slot bolts exactly the right size and keep them in place with the nut.
Allman brothers eat a peach rar. Screw the top plate in place. Finetune the buttons with the little nut under the PCB. Next make the sides of the box. (I used perforated material that fits snugly, so I don't need to use bolts).
Drill holes in the side plates for the cables. Connect the cables going to the garage door opening button and to the iButton-reader. (put the cables trough the holes in the side plates). Put everything together.
Finally I made the bolts black with a marker. To finnish it al up, we just need to connect everything. The iButton-reader has to go though the doorframe to the outside.
You need to drill a hole for the wire to go trough. 4 mm is big enough. If you drill this hole from the outside in, you want to drill slightly upwards, so water can not run in.
On the outside you need to make the hole a bid bigger. In my case; 10 mm for the body of the iButton-reader and 18 mm for the outer rim. I had to make the wires a little bit longer to get to my controller. Be careful nog to switch the wires around.
Now it is easy to install the iButton Reader. The wires coming from the relay should go to the screws on the back of the button that opens the garage. It doesn't matter what way around. Now it is time to plug the Arduino in and see if it is working!
I gave the garage door-opener a couple of functions:. On the top-line of the LCD you can see the time and date. On the bottom-line you can see who entered last including the time and date, he entered. If you push the top button, you can set the clock and first change the hour by pushing the bottom-button. If you push the top-button again, you change the minutes with the bottom-button. Next comes date and month. If you push the bottom-button, you can skip trough the 10 last entries.
Ibutton Reader Software
Every time you push the bottom-button, you will go back one in time. When you first push the bottom-button and than the top-button, you can block or de-block iButtons.
Ibutton Read Diagram
All iButtons will appear with the question to block it: top-button is yes, bottom-button is no.